This Handbook was written in 1993 by Gordon Buxton, Adrian Smith and Rachel Quarrell for the OU Coxswain's Society. While some portions are specifically related to the way rowing is organised on the Isis at Oxford, many sections are relevant to all coxes. This manual will be kept in the simple format introduced here, and more complex and advanced explanations stored elsewhere.
These markers have been put in to allow crews to turn safely without impeding each other. Stick to the m.
In general, river users must stick to the RIGHT of the river, i.e. the opposite side to UK roads.
Faster crews should overtake on the left, but only if it is clear and safe to do so. NEVER force another crew to stop just for the sake of your crew. You MUST NEVER overtake in the Gut.
N.B. Motor vehicles have a speed restriction of 5 mph and you may find yourself having to pass them. Don't get too close to them or their wash.
If, for some reason, you need to cross the river, you must stop and check that the river is clear both ways before crossing. This applies particularly to those crews wishing to land upstream at OUBC, since you cannot see crews coming downstream easily. You must only cross from the Cherwell Cut or Christ Church boathouse.
You must boat and land upstream on the main boathouse bank, except in emergencies or during races when the river rules have been temporarily altered.
You must obey OURCs committee representatives at all times (unless you can see a hazard which they cannot or you are unable to obey - Tell them what the problem is in this case.)
When turning at Timm's, ALWAYS TURN IMMEDIATELY and with bows away from the bridges.
Do not stop to coach or be coached in the Gut, between the Gut and Donnington Bridge, on the crown of any bend or where the river is narrow.
Coxing is like driving a car by voice control. You have to know the names of each part if you want it to work properly. Let's start with the basics. The front of the boat is called the bow. There must always be a bow ball. The back end of the boat (where you sit in most shells) is called the stern. In some boats, the cox lies down at the front (front- or bow-loaders), but is unlikely you will use one of these at Oxford.
Let's look now at how you talk to the rowers. You are not expected to know everyone's name and work out where they are sitting. Instead there is a numbering system starting from the bows, as seen in this diagram. The only quirk in the system is that the person closest to the bows is called "bow", not "1", and the person closest to you is called "stroke", not "8". In a smaller boat the numbering starts the same way from bow, so the rowers in a four-place boat are called, in order, Bow, 2, 3 and Stroke.
You will notice from the diagram that all the rowers with blades on your left are called stroke side, and all the rowers blades on your right are called bow side. In most boats, the stroke-siders have even numbers and the bow-siders odd numbers. In a bow-stroked/bow-rigged boat, the positions are still numbered sequentially, but for obvious reasons the oars themselves stay in the same place (see diagram) so the person in position 3 will be holding an oar with the number 4 on it.
You can talk to individual rowers by using their number, or by grouping them together in pairs, fours or sides. Bow pair is the pair of rowers closest to the bow (bow and 2), and stern pair is the pair nearest you. Similarly for bow four and stern four. You may also refer to middle four (3,4,5,6), bow side and stroke side.
See the full glossary later for more details and the rest of the rowing terms in common use.
Being able to stop the boat is also of the utmost importance. "Hold her up!" or "Hold it" is the command to use, or in emergencies, "HOLD HER HARD" shouted at top volume. The rowers will stop rowing and square their blades in the wtare to slow the boat down rapidly. If you had been rowing along at full speed before saying this, it will take you 1-3 lenths to come to a halt, so LOOK AHEAD.
When the boat has stopped, you can no longer steer with the rudder, but you still need to move the boat around. To do this, rowers can either "row on" or "back down".
ROWING ON: This is taking a normal stroke in the water with one or more people. When you get someone to do this, the bows of their boat move away from their blade. For example, (see diagram), if you get the bow-man in the boat pictured to row on for one stroke, the bows will swing to the left. If you use the 2-man, the bows will swing to the right. It is very important to notice that the boat will also move forward a little way, so don't row on if you are going to hit anything!
BACKING DOWN: To do this, the rower should sit with his or her blade-handle close to the chest, the blade turned around the wrong way from normal and in the water. Pushing the handle away towards the toes causes the reverse of a normal stroke. If you "back down" with your stroke-man or 7-man, it has a similar effect to "rowing on" with bow or 2 respectively. This will also move the boat slightly backwards. If you get tangled in a tree or another boat, back down with your stern pair or stern four to get out of trouble, rather than continuing to row on.
You must have your wits about you and be decisive. Call the name of the person you want to use, and tell them what to do: it's simple when you have learnt the numbers. For instance, commands you might use are "Bow, take a stroke!" or "7, back it down!". If they don't do it straight away, say it again and be forceful - remember you are in charge.
If you want the boat to turn but not move forward or backward, then get diagonally opposite rowers to move together. For example, asking 2 to row on and stroke to back down will pivot the boat about its centre. You can get a bigger effect and a quicker turn by using more rowers, for example bow and 3 rowing on, stroke and 6 backing down.
Turning the boat around completely then becomes an extension of these methods. You can get the whole of bow side to row on and the whole of stroke side to back down. You can do it the other way round, but this method is more usual, since boats tend to stick to the right side of the river and therefore need to turn their bows to the left to spin round. For novice boats, you will find that each side has to take it in turns with the other side, so that each rower has enough space to move in. As you become more experienced, you can use shorter strokes and begin to move together, since each rower needs less space. The ultimate "show-off" manoeuvre is a "tap-turn", where the blades just chop up and down in unison, one side turned as if for backing down. But whatever the skill of the crew, the fastest turn is half-strokes in unison, so use this in strong stream or wind.
An example of stopping the boat, turning it and then rowing off again with bow four is shown below to give some examples of commands. All commands themselves are written in CAPITALS.
"NEXT STROKE, EASY OARS" The rowers stop rowing
"STROKE SIDE, HOLD IT UP" The stroke side rowers square their blades in the water. This slows the boat down on stroke side but not bow side, and it starts to swing left and decelerate. This command isn't essential, but it gets the boat half-way round without any extra effort.
"SPINNING THE BOAT, STROKE SIDE BACKING, BOW SIDE ROWING ON. STARTING STROKE SIDE. READY?, GO". The rowers will turn the boat around (spinning) as described before, and will keep going until you stop by saying "EASY OARS" again. You could start with bow side, depending on your position on the river. You could also back down on bow side and row on with stroke side, in which case you would spin in the opposite direction.
"TWO, TAKE A STROKE" A slight adjustment to the angle of the boat so that you are pointing in the right direction before rowing off. You might not have to do this, or might have to do it in the opposite direction, but always make sure you are lined up correctly down the river before moving off.
"BOW FOUR, COME FORWARD TO ROW. ARE YOU READY? GO" Bow four rowers will get ready to row, and then start rowing on your command "GO". You may need to tell them what style or pressure to row before you say "ARE YOU READY?"
Most coxes steer too much. There are usually two reasons for this: a) they do not look far enough ahead and so have to steer suddenly to avoid obstacles and other crews, or to turn corners. b) they steer too far in one direction (because the boat turns slowly) and then have to steer back again. This often results a snaking line down the river.
Boats appear to steer very slowly. Always remember that where your bows are pointing is where you will be in about three strokes time, even though by the time you get there your bows may be pointing in a new direction. You must steer, therefore, by thinking about two or three lengths ahead of your current positions.
Sometimes you will be in a position where the boat cannot turn quickly enough. In this case you can get the rowers on the outside of the corner to pull harder by saying "STROKE SIDE, HARDEN UP" or "BOW SIDE, SHARPEN FOR TWO STROKES" or similar. This makes the boat turn quicker. Remember to go back to normal when the boat is straight again by saying "EVEN PRESSURE".
When it is very windy, you should steer to angle the boat into the wind slightly, so that you don't get blown out of control across the river.
When approaching a slower moving crew, make sure that you steer in plenty of time to be able to get round them without panic. You should try to overtake on the left if possible, but get back close to the right-hand bank as soon as possible. The only exception to this is on a very fast river, moving against the stream. In this one case, you need to stay directly behind the slower crew until you are close, and then move out to pass them. It is more important for you to learn how to steer properly than it is for you to try and coach or encourage the crew, until you are confident.
BLADE Another name for an oar.
SPOON Painted part of the blade which goes in the water.
LOOM Long stem of the blade.
HANDLE Wooden bit of the blade which you hold on to.
MACONS Spoon shaped blades, popular for most of this century.
HATCHETS Blades with cleaver-shaped spoons, introduced in 1992, used by top crews.
SQUARED Blade perpendicular to the water.
FEATHERED Blade parallel to the water.
PIN Vertical metal bit onto which the swivel is mounted.
SWIVEL Plastic bit of rigger which holds the blade and swivels to let the blade pivot.
GATE Metal bit at the top of the swivel which holds the blade in place.
RIGGER Metal stays fixed to the side of the boat that carry the blade. Riggers let the boat
itself be very narrow while having a wide leverage on the blade.
BUTTON The plastic ring on the blade which pushes on the inside of the swivel/gate.
CATCH The part of the stroke where the blade is put into the water.
FINISH The part of the stroke where the blade is taken out of the water.
DRAW The part of the stroke where the spoon is pulled through the water
DRIVE The phase of the stroke during the draw when the legs are driving downward.
STRIKE DOWN When the rower pushes the handle down to lever the blade out of the water.
RECOVERY The part of the stroke where the rower moves up the slide for the next catch.
FRONTSTOPS Where you take the catch on a full slide stroke.
BACKSTOPS Where you take the finish, legs flat, sitting back.
SLIDE Each rower sits on a seat which moves on small wheels. These wheels run up and
down the slide-runners. The slide is adjustable and there is one pair of runners for each rower.
SIT THE BOAT Blade feathered/flat on the water, holding the boat steady.
SPINNING Turning the boat around.
BACKING Doing a reverse stroke to go backwards.
SCRATCH ON This is when 3 rows with 2's blade or 2 with bow's blade. Paddling with another
rower's blade very close to the boat: moves the boat sideways very quickly.
INSIDE HAND The one nearest the gate (it does the squaring and feathering).
OUTSIDE HAND The one away from the gate, which does the pulling and striking down.
HALF SLIDE Taking the catch halfway to frontstops instead of at full slide. Also 1/4, 3/4.
BODY ROCK What you do with legs flat before you go up the slide during the recovery.
LIGHT PRESSURE Not pulling very hard.
FULL PRESSURE Pulling as hard as possible. Also FIRM PRESSURE.
HALF PRESSURE In between (theoretically). Also quarter-pressure or three-quarter.
RATING The number of strokes taken in a minute. Measured by a RATE METER.
RATIO The ratio of time pulling the stroke against time sliding on the recovery.
STROKE SIDE The left hand side of the boat when sitting in the cox's seat. All those rowers.
BOW SIDE The right hand side of the boat from the cox's seat, and those rowers.
STROKE (1) The person sitting nearest the cox, who sets the rhythm and rate.
STROKE (2) The repeating cycle of movements made by the rower and blade.
TAKE A CATCH Do a light part-stroke to straighten the boat out.
ROW ON Start paddling until told to stop.
EASY Stop rowing, as in EASY ALL or EASY OARS, EASY THERE. Blade off water.
DROP Drop the blade back onto the water after easying.
HOLD IT Blades squared in the water to slow or brake the boat.
HOLD IT HARD Shouted at top volume to avoid a crash: emergency stop.
BOW RIGGED A boat with the stroke person on bow side.
TANDEM A line-up where two consecutive rowers are on the same side.
CATCHING A CRAB When a blade gets stuck in the water and the handle knocks the rower flat.
CATCH FINISH CATCH LIGHT PRESSURE GO QUARTER PRESSURE GO HALF PRESSURE GO THREE QUARTER PRESSURE GO FULL PRESSURE GO TEN FIRM (ten hard strokes) GO WIND DOWN (after a burst) GO PUSH FOR TEN GO OUTSIDE HANDS ON/OFF GO INSIDE HANDS DOWN LOOM GO SQUARE BLADES GO FEATHERED BLADES GO NORMAL SQUARING GO DELAYED FEATHERING GO (examples of various types) NEXT STROKE HANDS ONLY GO NEXT STROKE BODY ROCK GO QUARTER SLIDE GO HALF SLIDE GO THREE QUARTER SLIDE GO FULL SLIDE NEXT STROKE GO (combined commands) HALF PRESSURE HALF SLIDE GO FULL PRESSURE FEATHERED BLADES GO EEEEEAAAAAAASY THERE!When going into single strokes etc., give an "EASY THERE" command, then "SINGLE STROKES TO HANDS AWAY", or "DOUBLE STROKE TO QUARTER SLIDE" etc, followed by "GO!"
When stopping a piece of quarter or half pressure, you can go straight into light pressure. When stopping a piece of fast, hard firm or three quarter pressure, wind down first, then call for light pressure.
The next few sections are specifically aimed at coxes on the Oxford river.
To get the crew into the boat: You need bow side to fix their blades into their riggers before anyone gets in. Then they can hold the boat level and steady while stroke side climb in (making sure they don't stand on the thin skin at the bottom of the boat) "BOW SIDE HOLDING, STROKE SIDE IN". Stroke side must first of all put their blades into their riggers and do the gates up securely, before taking off shoes and kit, doing up feet, etc. They should then tuck their blade handles under their arms to hold the boat steady while "BOW SIDE IN". As the rest of the rowers climb into the boat, it will sink in the water a small way: make sure that the weight of the boat is not resting on the fragile bow side riggers "PUSH IT OFF THE RIGGERS".
Put lights on the boat if necessary, and close the boathouse. Get the crew to "NUMBER OFF FROM BOW WHEN READY" it they shout their numbers in order. This tells you the crew is ready to row and reminds each person of their seat number that day. Check that the river is clear (especially over your left shoulder) and then hop in, telling the crew to "PUSH OFF BOW SIDE".
Often outings in eights will start with only pairs or fours rowing. This makes your boat very slow, so keep well into the bank out of the way of faster crews behind.
For all landings, LOOK AROUND to make sure that it is safe to stop without impeding anyone else. Move to the right and stop early if you need to. Be aware of whether the wind and stream are going to push you into the raft or away. Easy the boat about one raft length early, aim the bows into the raft at a small angle (about 10-20 degrees) and glide in or paddle in with the stern pair or four. When close enough, warn "BOW SIDE, MIND YOUR BLADES" and if needed, paddle on a bit more with a stroke side person. When overlapping sufficiently with the raft, get the closest person to you on stroke side to hold it up, which will swing the stern towards the raft. You get out first.
If you get into trouble, be ready to back the boat down and try again, or go onto another clear raft further ahead. The most common problem is coming to a stop too far away from the raft. One very good way to solve this is (for a normal rig) to ask your stroke-man to back down with his/her blade as close to the boat as possible, and get 3 to scratch on with 2's blade (see glossary). These two actions together will move the boat sideways to bow side. While you are learning to land, don't be embarrassed to ask people on the bank to pull you in. Landing is fairly difficult, so don't expect to get it right straight away.
Be polite! We share the river with other clubs, cruisers, punts, and fishermen. All have rights.
Don't take risks - SAFETY IS YOUR FIRST PRIORITY.
Ask your boat club or OURCs for advice if needed.
But above all,
ENJOY YOURSELF: It's a great sport.
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